Wednesday, February 27, 2013

AHHHHH I'm featured on Burdastyle!

How cool is that?
There's an interview and everything!
You can check it out here -


Monday, February 25, 2013

The Godet Jacket - Done!

Hello Hello!
I've been fighting tooth and nail to get my Godet Jacket done in time for the RTW contest. It was definitely a tiring and consuming project. I really tried to do everything right (even though I can still see flaws and parts I don't like about this project. Don't we all?) and actually think through the process before cutting into the fabric and winging it. I hope you can see evidence to that here, here and here.
It was an interesting experience; this was my first time making a real muslin (I think I've made only one before and even that was only a half-ass attempt), my first time underlining, my first time making godets (and lining a jacket with godets! I'll be sure to post an in depth post about that) AND my first time embellishing fabric with sewing machine stitching.
It wasn't my first time making bound buttonholes and I still struggled with them immensely. I'm not completely happy with how they turned out but they're much better than my first attempt.(which isn't my of a feat, I admit)

Because of the time constraints I decided to show you the final garment even though I have another jacket detail post lined up. If you're turned on by hand stitching, sleeve heads and intersion of linings, you will have to wait with baited breath for the next post. You'll have to make do with pictures of the outside of the jacket for now!

Well, here it is:

Hargah! Not exactly the right pose, but it's pretty close!
What do you think?
You can definitely tell my jacket is inspired by Karla's though there are quite a few differences (some are intentional and some aren't), but I guess a godet jacket will always be a godet jacket, right?

I promise, with all heart, that I will post more detailed pictures of the jacket AND more pictures of it's dirty mouthwatering insides.
I'd love to hear you thoughts! Do you think it came out similar?
(Also, what the H would you wear this with? It took me like an hour to figure out that only one pair of ill fitting (and when I say ill fitting I mean - barely went over my butt) jeans matched the jacket!)

Thursday, February 14, 2013

RTW Godet Jacket - Embellishing and Other Fine Details

A little update on my progress on the jacket:

After much thought, I decided to embellish the jacket a bit. As in the inpiration jacket I decided to embellish the godets and collar. Later, I added a few rows of embellishment at the bottom of the sleeves in a whim (which I have yet to photograph).

The pile of godets (6 to be exact) embellished and stay stitched.
I started this jacket with the godets. I'm amazed to see how differently I think of sewing projects now that I have a little more experience. Had I made this jacket a year ago I would have started from the body of the jacket (if I even knew what to do with myself!) and then figured out the little details later. Now, I read up quite a bit about godets, tailoring a so on before I even thought of cutting the fabric and I realized it would be smartest to start with the godets.
My biggest issue was lining the jacket, I really didn't know how to line the jacket as I didn't want the godets to be weighed down witha full lining. I did a little bit of research and found Frabjous Couture's detailed post about her burdatyle godet skirt. To be honest, it wasn't detailed enough as all I came away with from the post was that she lined the godet seperates. As to how she lined the rest of the skirt and attached it to the godet lining I can't say, I'll be making my own way when I reach that point.

Lined Godet
I attached the lining only to the bottom of the godet and the side are attached the to jacket body. It may sound a little weird now but I promise that once I show more pictures of the more progressed jacket you'll get it. I haven't fully lined it so I don't know if my plans will succeed, but we'll see!

Other side of lined godet.
More about the embeliishing! Here's the collar:

As you can see I've already constructed part of the jacket!
Anyway, I embellished the godets with 6 rows of machined stitches and the collar with three rows. I have to admit that I love the look!

I tested out interfacing before I used it (I told you I was doing this right!):

It has a weird weave to it, but I kind of like it!

That is a nice roll!
Finaly, I cut into the fabric! (yes I cut my fabric on the floor).

At this point I had a dillema. Even though the fabric doesn't have tons of drape it really down't have the body the inspiration jacket has. I've never underlined a garment before and I didn't know how difficult it would be and if the cotton muslin I have would suit the fabric. I did a little research and after I saw that Sarai underlined her Anise Jacket with cotton muslin, I felt like this was te way to go. I did one last test and held up the fabrics against each other and checked the drape and it seemed fine. I went for it!

This is one of the pattern pieces underlined. I cut the cotton muslin from the same pattern pieces and basted them together at a 1/4 inch seam allowance (my real seam allowance is 1/2 inch). Apparently you're not supposed to pivot at the points of the pattern but sew right off them because pivoting shifts the fabrics. (I have Tasia from Sewaholic to thank for this gem!):

And look! My nailpolish matched the fabric!

That's it!
Let me know if you have any question about the construction - it's kind of difficult to show all the little details in pictures. 
I'm really excited about this jacket and since I decided to take this whole tailoring very seriously I even decided to add bond buttonholes. More to come on the jacket! (I hope you're not tired of these detailed posts, let me know if you think they're lacking in any detail or if you don't want to hear about this at all.

Friday, February 8, 2013

RTW Godet Jacket - The Muslin

As promised, I'm here to share the next stage in the jacket creation - the muslin. I use an embarrassing polka dot cotton that I got a few years ago. Who knows what I got it for but I certainly know I won't be using it. It has a different feel from the fabric for my jacket but I mostly made the muslin to check the fit of the pattern. I'm such a newbie at making muslins (I never ever do) that I don't even know what to show you guys. I guess I'll just be listing everything that went wrong? Maybe I'll add a few positive things just so I don't feel too dreary about my drafting skills.

Anyway, the muslin:

It's weird to see a picture of the muslin, I'm so glad I have a blog otherwise I would skip half the steps most of the time and look how bad this jacket looks!

Let's talk issues:
1) It's not tight enough. This may be the size I'd usually make jacket, but the jacket I'm trying to copy is extra tight, to I definitly need to make this smaller.
2) Too long. If I shorten the jacket by about 1.5 inches, the godets will start in the right place and the jacket will be more flattering in general
3) Armhole tightness. I don' know if you can see in the picture but the armhole is extremely tight, not only s this uncomfortable it also pulls down the shoulder seam giving the jacket a "dropped shoulder" look.
4) The godets are too small. (width wise)

The good stuff:
The princess seams line up with the bust apexes.
Tha collar, even though it doesn't have as much roll as the original jacket, is pretty similar and I like it!
I think I'm going to leave the sleeve at exactly this length, I love it when sleeves are slightly short when i comes to jackets, I have no idea why.
The sleeve seems to have enough ease and will look perfect with a little sleeve head shoved under it.

See? really tight armhole.

The back is a little messy. It's too wide as well and there's something weird going on near the armhole area. I diagnosed this as a symptom of the armhole tightness but I'm starting to think I may have been wrong.
Also, you can see I marked the roll line of the collar with a pin as I didn't know how to do this without using a real live collar (this is one of those issues of teaching yourself pattern drafting, I feel like I missing out on some basic stuff). I'm going to move the mark to the pattern and then fuze the roll line to get a nice roll.

These are the changes I'm going to make to the pattern:
1) Take 1/2 inch of the side seams
2) shave 1/4 inch off the waist curves in the princess seams.
3) Enlarge the godets by another half godet (the new godet will be 1.5 of the olf godet.)
4) Enlarge the armhole.
5) Shorten jacket by 1.5

Marking 1/2 off he side seam:

I called he jacket the Flange Jacket as first because for some reason I was convinced Godets are called Flanges. Embarrassing.

Enlarging the bottom of the armhole:

Any other issues you guys spot with the pattern?
What do you think so far? Does this look even remotely close to the original jacket?

I already started on the next step of the jacket, there are a lot of issues to be dealt with in this jacket, the largest of them being lining the godets but we'll get to this soon! I'll be sure to fill you in as I go along!

Saturday, February 2, 2013

RTW Pattern Review Contest

 Hi everyone!
How is your weekend? It's been pretty rainy here so all I did was lounge around and ate (though I did get some sewing done as well!).

Well, even though I have so much going on with my life right now, I decided to enter Pattern Review's RTW contest. This is the decription on the contest page:

"Create a garment inspired by one that you have seen. The inspiration item can be from a Ready-To-Wear line, from the runway, or any other garment you have seen worn or pictured.  The garment must clearly be inspired by the original piece. It does not have to be, but can be, an exact copy."

Well, I still don't know if I'll be making an exact copy but I already decided what my inspiration will be and I spent the day making the pattern for the garment. This is my original inspiration:


The Godet Jacket!
I looked at the voting guidelines a bit to see what exactly is expected from the contestants and it appears that the construction, fabric choice and embellishment are taking into account as much as the overall look of the garment (which makes sense!) so I decided to take this very seriously. Not only will this be a learning experience for me as I usually tend to take shortcuts when I can, I definitely going to try new techniques (such as inserting godets).

I'll be using a moss colored poly-cotton blend that kind of has a thick wool suiting feel to it. It took me a while to decide if the color and fabric will suit this jacket, and to be honest I'm ot fully convinced it'll work - but we'll have to see!

The coloring is very off in the picture - I'll try to get a picture during the day. The lining is kind of a beige color (see how off the coloring is?) and it's just poly satin - not the most luxurious form of lining but it's the best I can do with my budget!

The shell fabric has kind of a tweedy look to it which is the main reason for me being unsure of how well this fabric will work for the jacket

I broke up the process to make it easier for myself, I'll be posting about my progress as I go along and I'd love to hear what you guys think and if you have any tips (or notice any errors!) for me.

1) Draft a pattern for the jacket - make a list of properties that I want to retain in my own design.
2) Prepare the muslin (this is one of those steps that I usually skip!)- the jacket must be on the tighter side.
3) Pretreat fabric (I probably won't share this part unless you guys want to see a picture of my washing machine).
4)  Cut out the fabric.
5) Embellishment: My inspiration has embelishment tipstiching on the collar and godets - should I recreate a form of embelishment myself?
6) Tailoring - As this contest does focus on constrution, I do want to incorporate tailoring techniques in my sewing. At first I wanted to pad stitch the collar but I can't seem to find hair canvas here in Israel and I don't think I'll have enough time to order it of the net, so I think I'll go for the fusible method. Also, I'll be adding shoulder pads and sleeve heads. hmm.. Any other tailoring methods I'm missing?
7) Assembling the jacket - dealing the the godets.
8) Lining - I still don't know what I'll be doing with the lining. I'll pose the question more thoroughly later.

Anyway, Step 1 is almost complete! I drafted the pattern for the jacket and the godets, I still have to modify the godets a bit to have a more curvier hem.

I'll take you through the process I went, it'll be nice to see it all in writing!
Let's look at the picture again:

Let's break the design down:
1) The basic design is made out shoulder princess seams. I love stylelines, I think they follow the curves of the body much better than darts so this makes me happy. From what I can tell there's an additional side panel to the jacket which I won't be adding- can you see this as well or a I making it up?
2) The godets are inserted into each styleline seam. They start a few inches below the waist and look to be at least as wide as each princess seam panel - wouldn't you say? There seem to be at least 7 godets (the side panel thing being a mystery to me) so that what I'll be doing!
3) The jacket closes up with 7 buttons (but I can't promise mine will too)
4) Te neckline is pretty high and sports a peter pan collar with a pretty tall collar stand
5) The shoulder pads in this jacket are quite thick, I will be using 1/4 shoulder pads as this style may be too much for me.
6) The sleeves are two pieced. I have a one piece sleeve that I drafted for another jacket so I'm wondering if to use that or to draft a two piece sleeve.- thoughts?

This is what I've got so far. Princess seam jacket body and the godet.
Next week - muslin and hopefully starting to sew the jacket!

I'll leave you (if you're still reading this) with a list of questions:
1) What do you think of the fabric? is it suitable for the design?
2) Any thoughts about the embellishment in the godets and collar? I thought of using gold topstitching thread to create the design.
3) Anyone know a good alternative to Hair Canvas? I really want to do some tailoring here! speaking of which, any other tailoring methods I can use here?

Looking back at this post it was a whole lot of rambling - do you find this interesting? would you like to see more about this jacket?

Have a great week everyone!
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