Let's talk a little about the tailoring details in the jacket. As you can see, I drafted a peter pan collar for the jacket. At first I wanted to use hair canvas to create the collar fold but I couldn't find any in my area so I decided to go for the fusible method.
The fusible method is a pretty simple idea so adding another layer of fusible interfacing so the fold to give it more body. How did I determine the fold? If you look back at the muslin post, I marked the fold with a pin and then unraveled the collar and copied the markings to the pattern. Next I traced a moon shape inside the collar stand – this will be the extra layer of interfacing to create the fold. Let me know if you have any questions about this!
|See the excess fabric in white?|
One thing I learned from being lazy in the previous jackets I've made is that determining the turn of cloth in collars is REALLY important; otherwise the collar won't lie flat. It's a really easy process if you have a body double of some sort. If you don't (like me) you will need a helper. Just pin the outer collar to the inner collar along the neck seam and the the collar lie naturaly. If you're using a thick fabric, the inner collar (the collar inderneath) should peak underneath the lower collar , like this:
Picture of turn of cloth
Trim the excess fabric and you're done!
Easing the sleeve:
I decided to ease in the sleeve with the help of a bias strip (I use Gertie's tutorial for this). I know she said she used mohair but I just used plain old poly fleece (I made sure it stretched well on the bias) and I think it turned out fine – do any of you know a reason why this could be bad?
|See how it eases the sleeve beautifully??|
|I then pressed the bias stip and the seam allowances towards the sleeve (thus the bias strip turns into a sleeve head!)|
|When I took this picture the sleeve was standing on it's own. Hehe.|
I made bound buttonholes. I have a question and I want to guys to be honest here – have you ever managed to make all your bound buttonholes even? I've made two jacket with bound buttonholes and IT'S SO DIFFICULT TO GET EVERYTHING LINED UP. I was really meticulous about the stitching and everything and they still aren't perfect. ARHHG
|My first practice buttonhole.|
I made the bound buttonholes using two tutorials together and I think this is the best method for me as of now. Let me know if you guys want a tutorial (even though I'll say I advance that they didn't turn out perfect).
|Mt first bound buttonhole!|
|The back of the buttonholes after trimming.|
That's it for now! I have another post lined up about lining the godet jacket and then I promise I won't mention it ever again!
If you would like to vote for the jacket in the RTW Contest you can click here. (THANK YOU!!!)