Thursday, February 14, 2013

RTW Godet Jacket - Embellishing and Other Fine Details

A little update on my progress on the jacket:

After much thought, I decided to embellish the jacket a bit. As in the inpiration jacket I decided to embellish the godets and collar. Later, I added a few rows of embellishment at the bottom of the sleeves in a whim (which I have yet to photograph).

The pile of godets (6 to be exact) embellished and stay stitched.
I started this jacket with the godets. I'm amazed to see how differently I think of sewing projects now that I have a little more experience. Had I made this jacket a year ago I would have started from the body of the jacket (if I even knew what to do with myself!) and then figured out the little details later. Now, I read up quite a bit about godets, tailoring a so on before I even thought of cutting the fabric and I realized it would be smartest to start with the godets.
My biggest issue was lining the jacket, I really didn't know how to line the jacket as I didn't want the godets to be weighed down witha full lining. I did a little bit of research and found Frabjous Couture's detailed post about her burdatyle godet skirt. To be honest, it wasn't detailed enough as all I came away with from the post was that she lined the godet seperates. As to how she lined the rest of the skirt and attached it to the godet lining I can't say, I'll be making my own way when I reach that point.

Lined Godet
I attached the lining only to the bottom of the godet and the side are attached the to jacket body. It may sound a little weird now but I promise that once I show more pictures of the more progressed jacket you'll get it. I haven't fully lined it so I don't know if my plans will succeed, but we'll see!

Other side of lined godet.
More about the embeliishing! Here's the collar:

As you can see I've already constructed part of the jacket!
Anyway, I embellished the godets with 6 rows of machined stitches and the collar with three rows. I have to admit that I love the look!

I tested out interfacing before I used it (I told you I was doing this right!):

It has a weird weave to it, but I kind of like it!

That is a nice roll!
Finaly, I cut into the fabric! (yes I cut my fabric on the floor).

At this point I had a dillema. Even though the fabric doesn't have tons of drape it really down't have the body the inspiration jacket has. I've never underlined a garment before and I didn't know how difficult it would be and if the cotton muslin I have would suit the fabric. I did a little research and after I saw that Sarai underlined her Anise Jacket with cotton muslin, I felt like this was te way to go. I did one last test and held up the fabrics against each other and checked the drape and it seemed fine. I went for it!

This is one of the pattern pieces underlined. I cut the cotton muslin from the same pattern pieces and basted them together at a 1/4 inch seam allowance (my real seam allowance is 1/2 inch). Apparently you're not supposed to pivot at the points of the pattern but sew right off them because pivoting shifts the fabrics. (I have Tasia from Sewaholic to thank for this gem!):

And look! My nailpolish matched the fabric!

That's it!
Let me know if you have any question about the construction - it's kind of difficult to show all the little details in pictures. 
I'm really excited about this jacket and since I decided to take this whole tailoring very seriously I even decided to add bond buttonholes. More to come on the jacket! (I hope you're not tired of these detailed posts, let me know if you think they're lacking in any detail or if you don't want to hear about this at all.


  1. I love your topstitching details, can't wait to see the finished garment! :-)

    1. Thanks! I can't wait either! We'll see how it goes this weekend...

  2. you are a rockstar!!! i'm super impressed. and excited to see the finished product!

    1. Haha! thanks! I'm going to wait for the finished garment before the finished garment before I call myself a rockstar :)

    2. Well now we can officially call you a rockstar :)


Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...