Friday, February 8, 2013

RTW Godet Jacket - The Muslin

As promised, I'm here to share the next stage in the jacket creation - the muslin. I use an embarrassing polka dot cotton that I got a few years ago. Who knows what I got it for but I certainly know I won't be using it. It has a different feel from the fabric for my jacket but I mostly made the muslin to check the fit of the pattern. I'm such a newbie at making muslins (I never ever do) that I don't even know what to show you guys. I guess I'll just be listing everything that went wrong? Maybe I'll add a few positive things just so I don't feel too dreary about my drafting skills.

Anyway, the muslin:

It's weird to see a picture of the muslin, I'm so glad I have a blog otherwise I would skip half the steps most of the time and look how bad this jacket looks!

Let's talk issues:
1) It's not tight enough. This may be the size I'd usually make jacket, but the jacket I'm trying to copy is extra tight, to I definitly need to make this smaller.
2) Too long. If I shorten the jacket by about 1.5 inches, the godets will start in the right place and the jacket will be more flattering in general
3) Armhole tightness. I don' know if you can see in the picture but the armhole is extremely tight, not only s this uncomfortable it also pulls down the shoulder seam giving the jacket a "dropped shoulder" look.
4) The godets are too small. (width wise)

The good stuff:
The princess seams line up with the bust apexes.
Tha collar, even though it doesn't have as much roll as the original jacket, is pretty similar and I like it!
I think I'm going to leave the sleeve at exactly this length, I love it when sleeves are slightly short when i comes to jackets, I have no idea why.
The sleeve seems to have enough ease and will look perfect with a little sleeve head shoved under it.

See? really tight armhole.

The back is a little messy. It's too wide as well and there's something weird going on near the armhole area. I diagnosed this as a symptom of the armhole tightness but I'm starting to think I may have been wrong.
Also, you can see I marked the roll line of the collar with a pin as I didn't know how to do this without using a real live collar (this is one of those issues of teaching yourself pattern drafting, I feel like I missing out on some basic stuff). I'm going to move the mark to the pattern and then fuze the roll line to get a nice roll.

These are the changes I'm going to make to the pattern:
1) Take 1/2 inch of the side seams
2) shave 1/4 inch off the waist curves in the princess seams.
3) Enlarge the godets by another half godet (the new godet will be 1.5 of the olf godet.)
4) Enlarge the armhole.
5) Shorten jacket by 1.5

Marking 1/2 off he side seam:

I called he jacket the Flange Jacket as first because for some reason I was convinced Godets are called Flanges. Embarrassing.

Enlarging the bottom of the armhole:

Any other issues you guys spot with the pattern?
What do you think so far? Does this look even remotely close to the original jacket?

I already started on the next step of the jacket, there are a lot of issues to be dealt with in this jacket, the largest of them being lining the godets but we'll get to this soon! I'll be sure to fill you in as I go along!


  1. i'm actually really impressed! it does need some tweaking, but you did a great job! i'm excited to see it when you did all the tweaking! way to go!

    1. Thanks! It does need to some tweaking.. In retrospect I could have made it tighter, but we'll see how it turns out!

  2. This is going to be awesome. Hope it's not causing you too many headaches!
    I nominated you for an award on my blog :-)
    Keep up the good work!

    1. Thanks! It's not causing me any headaches to be honest, I really like taking the time and paying attention to details. (at least for one project every once in a while!)
      Thanks for nominating me!!! You're so nice!! i'll be sure to look it over when I can :)


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