Tuesday, March 5, 2013

The Godet Jacket - Taloring Details

I really hope you're not sic with this jacket by now, I warned you there was another post ahead!

Let's talk a little about the tailoring details in the jacket. As you can see, I drafted a peter pan collar for the jacket. At first I wanted to use hair canvas to create the collar fold but I couldn't find any in my area so I decided to go for the fusible method.

The fusible method is a pretty simple idea so adding another layer of fusible interfacing so the fold to give it more body. How did I determine the fold? If you look back at the muslin post, I marked the fold with a pin and then unraveled the collar and copied the markings to the pattern. Next I traced a moon shape inside the collar stand – this will be the extra layer of interfacing to create the fold. Let me know if you have any questions about this!

See the excess fabric in white?

One thing I learned from being lazy in the previous jackets I've made is that determining the turn of cloth in collars is REALLY important; otherwise the collar won't lie flat.  It's a really easy process if you have a  body double of some sort. If you don't (like me) you will need a helper. Just pin the outer collar to the inner collar along the neck seam and the the collar lie naturaly. If you're using a thick fabric, the inner collar (the collar inderneath) should peak underneath the lower collar , like this:
Picture of turn of cloth
Trim the excess fabric and you're done!

Easing the sleeve:

 I decided to ease in the sleeve with the help of a bias strip (I use Gertie's tutorial for this). I know she said she used mohair but I just used plain old poly fleece (I made sure it stretched well on the bias) and I think it turned out fine – do any of you know a reason why this could be bad?

See how it eases the sleeve beautifully??
I then pressed the bias stip and the seam allowances towards the sleeve (thus the bias strip turns into a sleeve head!)
When I took this picture the sleeve was standing on it's own. Hehe.

I made bound buttonholes. I have a question and I want to guys to be honest here – have you ever managed to make all your bound buttonholes even? I've made two jacket with bound buttonholes and IT'S SO DIFFICULT TO GET EVERYTHING LINED UP. I was really meticulous about the stitching and everything and they still aren't perfect. ARHHG

My first practice buttonhole.
Anyway, I measured everything using my see through ruler (I LOVE THAT THING).
I made the bound buttonholes using two tutorials together and I think this is the best method for me as of now. Let me know if you guys want a tutorial (even though I'll say I advance that they didn't turn out perfect).

Pile of fabric squares for buttonholes.

Mt first bound buttonhole!
The back of the buttonholes after trimming.

That's it for now! I have another post lined up about lining the godet jacket and then I promise I won't mention it ever again!
If you would like to vote for the jacket in the RTW Contest  you can click here. (THANK YOU!!!)

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