40s Shirt Dress

Hi everyone!
I hope you had a great weekend, for me it already feels like the middle of the week, Sunday and Monday are always soooo long. Thankfully we have a day off tomorrow for elections! It's kind of a hectic time here, I'm so sick of thinking about politics, I want it over. I spent the last few months weeks talking about religion, the economy, the Jewish-Palestinian relationship and all the issues that disrupt my little country and I've had it! I want to think about sewing and reality shows and be able to have a conversation that doesn't somehow evolve into politics.

Other than that, it feels like fall here, I've been wearing short sleeved dresses with light sweaters and having lunch in the sun. I really should start my summer sewing because I think it's getting here faster than we think!

Onto my next creation, this is my favorite garment I've ever made by far:

A 40s style shirt dress!
It's self drafted, as usual. I replaced he bust and shoulder darts with gathers (which in retrospect may not have been the best idea). The bodice came out a little wider than I'd anticipated which is nice for having a big meal but isn't as flattering as most 40s button up dresses I've seen.
I really was aiming at this look:

 Now that I look at it, it's pretty similar! I'm still convinced that Kate's bodice is a little more flattering than mine but we can't have it all.... right?

 

 

 The front placket is completely fake. I despise making buttonholes and this hatred has been leading my sewing choices in he past few garments I've made (I won't even talk about the bound buttonholes I tried making a few weeks ago). I realize making buttonholes is kind of a must for a seamstress such as myself but doesn't avoiding buttonholes induce creativity that wouldn't have existed had I been a fan of buttonholes all along? At least this is what I like to tell myself.
I get in and out of the dress using a side zipper, if you were wondering - inserting an invisible zipper is such a breeze compare to buttonholes.

As you can see from the non-spreadiness of the skirt, this is a basic A line skirt. I drafted it using the pattern from the Mystery Pocket Skirt Tutorial. It's so freaking useful! I used this pattern in my 60s Dress as well, it's not as luxurious as a circle skirt, which is a good thing sometimes as it makes the dress more day appropriate, I feel a little overdressed when I wear a circle skirt to work - is that silly?
The fabric I chose for this dress feels like pure heaven on my skin though I'm sure it's pure plolyester (on my skin). I got it at Joann's at a 50% off sale a while ago.. it kind of has a rayon- like drape but is a little thicker than rayon. I really wish you could put up your hand to the screen and feel it. Pet the screen, why don't you?

The one thing that really bothers me about this dress is the collar, it's SO wonky! I can't seem to fix it with any amount of pressing or pleading! Granted, I did cut it out on grain rather than on the bias (would that have helped the situation out?) but IT WON'T LIE FLAT. I'd love to hear tips about this if anyone has any.
I got a bunch of fabric covered buttons last time I was in NYC and I thought this dress deserved 5 fabric covered 7/8 inch buttons. I LOVE FABRIC COVERED BUTTONS! I can honestly never find buttons that I like more than fabric covered buttons. Test me! I promise I won't back down from this statement.

The most important part, THE EMBROIDERY! I outright copied Lladybird and used the same exact pattern she used for her Ceylon, how inspiring is it?
It took my like 10 hours to complete since this was the first time I embroidered anything. I used all 6 threads and a stem stitch to complete the whole design, I'm so excited about it!! It was so relaxing though and I think it gives the garment another personal touch that not many RTW garments have noadays.
Have you guys ever embroidered anything?

So, remember when I was saying that ever time I spend a lot of time on a garment and think about all the details and fall in love with the garment AND THEN NO ONE LIKES IT, but when I spend 3 hours on a dress everyone swoons over it?
Well, the same thing happened with this dress, as I said, this is my favorite garment by far and yet I got so few compliment about it compare to my 60s dress!
I sew for myself, I don't depend on other people's opinions when it comes to the stuff I make as many of it isn't exactly in line with the current fashion, but it's nice to get rewarded for my hard work. oh well.

Anyway, I really feel like this dress is another step in the direction of "good sewing" as I'm so proud to wear it out in public! (except for the collar. I know).
Have you ever given your whole self to a garment and had no one appreciate it as much as you do?
Have you ever embroidered as a part of the sewing experiance?
Are you sick of politics as much as I am?

Hope you have a great week!

Faux Chanel Jacket

Hello!
We had a crazy week this week, there was a terrible storm (which most of you would probably laugh at) and it even snowed in some parts of Israel! Since we're not accustomed to actual real winter here it pretty much meant that the country fell apart. It took people hours to get to work in the morning because the roads were blocked and so on. No matter, at least we had rain!

I made this jacket a few weeks ago as a homage to the Chanel Jacket. Now I know it's much more basic than the Chanel Jacket but I was inspired by it and therefore I'm entitled to say that it is a homage. STOP CRITISIZING ME.

DO I LOOK LIKE MICHELLE OBAMA OR WHAT?

hmm.

I really do feel elegant and respectable when I wear this. It's a little more fancy than what I normally wear, I kind of dress like I a little girl most of the time (evidence here). This tendency is not as prominent in the blog because I tend to dress up for pictures rather than just wear the garments as I would to work on a daily basis (AND I own an obscene amount of sweaters with little animals them). WHAT I'M TRYING TO SAY is that this isn't my usual style.

This is what I would have looked like had I taked the photos this past week:

This is what I think that bloggers that take near naked (and when I say near naked I mean short sleeves/skirts with no tights) photos in the snow. I know there's a secret conspiracy where they all use photoshop to insert snow, because there's no freaking way to be naked in the snow. I love my blog, but not that much. (for those of you who Googled the phrase "naked in the snow" and came across my blog 1) I'm sorry to disappoint 2) what were you thinking? seriously.)

Now I'll talk about the jacket, because this is why I have a blog. I still can't believe it, but I drafted the pattern myself! I used my own bodice pattern and it took quite some time because I wanted to make sure I did it right. (since then I've drafted another jacket and it went much quicker, I think I was just being a little too anal). To be honest, I should get off my high horse and face the facts, it's not really a difficult jacket to draft as there is not collar and it's only waist length but here at DS we kid ourselves that what we do is an achievement. Play along or leave.

This fabric was a NIGHTMARE, I don't think you can tell from the pictures, but it's so loosly woven I really think that the employee at the store I bought it from sat a wove the fabric from black and white string. It was silly of my not to take this into account, the only think I did to manage the stretchiness and shapless-ness of the fabric was stay stitch EVERYTHING. The problem was that I didn't think that even after the garment was finished there was the danger of it falling apart. How did that happend do you ask? the side of the jacket got cought on my bag and it pulled out like THREE STRINGS from the jacket. You'd think it's not a big deal but as I said, it's so loosely woven theres a gaping hole in the side of my jacket and I've yet to come up with an idea to fix this. Any ideas?

I interfaced the facings and the hemline because it wouldn't retain it's shape. It's still a little weird at times.. OH WELL.
The pattern has a basic side-bust dart and shoulder darts in the back. I wanted to keep it simple as the fabric is kind of busy. This is why the jacket came out kind of wide at the waist,  a little wide.

This was my first time making sleeve heads as well and I'm so happy with the result, it really does make a difference with the way the sleeves look. In my stupidity I bought bright purple fleece for this because I thought it will always be under fabric so it won't matter. I know I haven't mentioned this yet (hehe) but the fabric was REALLY loosely woven so you can kind of see little specs of purple fleece through the sleeve head. I use Gertie's method for this and it was really easy, it eliminates the need for easing the sleeve and inserts a sleeve head in one go!

 

No, I am not selling watches (boy am I full of jokes today), how awesome is my lining?! I tried wearing the jacket inside out and I looked like a pimp. I've started using poly sating for lining because there's a larger range in colors than lining fabrics, also they're thicker and feel a little more luxurious to me (I know I should be crucified for calling polyester luxurious). Have you ever tried it using poly satin as a lining?

 

AND THERES A WELT POCKET. HOW AWESOME IS THAT?!@
I wish I had a handkerchief to put in this pocket because it is too cool not to be used. I used the Coletterie's Tutorial for this as well. It didn't come out as nice as my 60's Dress because the satin was kind of slippery and difficult to handle (and I may have over pressed it) but I'm still happy with it!

Inside-out picture. I know you love them.
I inserted the lining using the bagging method. It took me a while to figure out because I didn't think to look at the tutorial before I drafted the lining and cut out the pieces but I worked it out in the end. I used this excellent tutorial by Grainline.

See the gaping in the back? Maybe a back stay would have helped? Or maybe it the jacket just needs to be slimmer - any suggestions?

 

 

That's it for now!
Have you ever attempted to make a faux Chanel Jacket? I'd love to hear what you have to say about EVERYTHING I wrote today.
PICTURE OVERLOAD.

Black Tie Event T Shirt

Hello there!
How were your New Years celebrations?? I had a great time though there was a lot of regretful feelings the next day at work. I wore my Knight in Shining Armor Shirt, as I believe that one should dress in shiny garments in the new year (hopefully by next year I'll make a sequin dress!), with a black tutu-esque skirt. I felt so fancy! Did you wear a me-made garment?

Now that the holidays are over, it's time to get back to business. I made this shirt for my dad's birthday. He's the opposite of a fancy dresser in the extreme, he won't go to events that require fancy attire - that's how much he's afraid of it. Luckily, his job doesn't require fancy dressing (He's a physicist), he tends to go to talks wearing a funny t shirts and shorts.
My dad has been bugging me to make him something ever since I started sewing but he's always asked for far fetched things like a long wool coat or a leather jacket, so when the word T Shirt came up I finally decided it was time to take the plunge and make him something. In the spirit of funny T Shirts, I though I'd make him something that he could wear to talks that would be a tiny bit fancy if worn under a jacket yet still funny.

Ha!
Yes I know you're all laughing out loud.

Anyway, I figured this is a cheeky way to wear a tie (as my dad hasn't worn a tie since his Bar Mitzva). I use Burdastyle's Pete (it's free!) and it's a pretty good pattern. I didn't make a muslin because I wanted this to be a surprise so I just figured I wing it. There are a few alterations I'd make in the future if I ever make this again - for one, shortening the shoulder width.. any other suggestions as to what I should change? I can see that it doesn't fit perfectly but I can't decide exactly what to do...
Otherwise the pattern was very easy to sew, I think I cut a large, which, again, I can't decide if it was the best size.. The sleeves have the biggest hem in the world which is kind of ridiculous, it's like 2.5 inches, WHY?? They also kind of stick up, I'm wondering if that's improve once I shorten the shoulder length? hmm

I finished the neckline using this excellent tutorial rather than using ribbing for the neckline like the pattern suggested. It was so easy and it looks professional as well! It calls for serging the band to the neckline and then topstitching it.

  

 I  used this terrible white poly fabric for the tie, I don't know when or why I bought this fabric but I have tons of it and I have no idea what to do with it. only 300 yards more to figure out what to do with.

The tie came out a bit crooked, it was absolutely impossible to sew on straight. At some point I got frustrated and just figure I'd stick with what I've got.

My dad wore it to a talk with a jacket and nicer pants than in the photo (which basically means not jeans) and got many compliments! Apparently physicists have a fashion sense as too.

And finally if you didn't think we were weird enough, here's my father attempting to look like a porn star. You may unfollow my blog now.

Have you ever made menswear before?

Also I have a final general thought. I managed to make two blouses this weekend and it got me thinking - does the fact that I can make garments so quickly mean that I'm in a sewing stand-still? That I should be trying to techniques and drafting more complex patterns? I guess one of the reasons I managed to make up the two blouses so quickly is because the patterns were ready so that reduced the time significantly. But still, does sewing only count if you feel like you've learned something from the project? Sometimes I don't feel like plunging into a big project, especially since I only sew on weekends. Can sewers only improve if they try ambitious projects? I'd love to hear your thoughts!

60s Dress- or I Wish I had A Holiday Dress

I made this dress out of pure sewing boredom.
Do you ever buy fabric just because it's cheap? This is my polish demeanor coming out - it's cheap, why not get it even though it's itchy and polyester?
Ok I'm exaggerating it's not that bad, but to be honest, if I saw this now, as a more experianced sewer I wouldn't have bought this fabric. Oh well, at least I got a dress out of it.

I've mentioned this on Pinterest (ahem ahem), I really don't know what to do about winter dresses. I mean, how often does one wear a long sleeved dress? I don't know if this is an Israeli thing, but I don't see many long sleeved dressed around that I like. (Also, long sleeved dresses always make me think of religious clothing (this is definitely an Israeli thing) because religious women have to cover their elbows in public so they always wear long sleeved dresses and I can't seem to shake this image out of my head)

Anyway, I decided to try a long sleeved version for this dress and surprise, surprise! I think I quite like it! It's just a basic shift dress (or maybe it doesn't count as a shift because it has a waist seam?) with welt pockets and three quarter sleeves.

I promise it looks less like PJs and more like a dress in real life.

I opted for simple side-bust-darts (I'm sure there's a simpler name for this) because I didn't want to ruin the striped fabric. I always have issues with this when sewing with plaids and stripes. I never really know what kind shape will distort the pattern the least, for this, dress side-bust-darts seemed the way to go. Don't ask me why I created a waist seam rather than made it a continuous dress, it was kind of difficult to match the stripes and they're kind of in an obvious area so it was really important they match. I guess in the end the waist seam does create a more fitted silhouette which I think is more flattering so it was worth it!

See the side-bust-dart? And no, I didn't bother matching the stripes on the side seams, bad sewer! bad!

I didn't have enough fabric to make a circle skirt of some sort so I decided to go for a flared A line skirt and see if the idea works for me (I'm always a little daunted by A line skirts, they seems kind of shapeless to me) but I think it came out nicely!  I used my own tutorial to draft the skirt, (taken from the Mystery Pocket Skirt) only I spread out the three rectangles to a measurement a little wider than my hip measuremant as I wanted the dress to be more flared than the Mystery Pocket Skirt (if you want to do this yourself and have questions - let me know!)

I have to say I'm incredibly happy with my pockets!! This was my first time making welt pockets and I love how they turned out. Welt pockets are one of those touches that remind me how much I've improved with my sewing, it's such a cute detail and it's easier to sew than it looks!
I used the pocket template from Colette's Anise Pattern (I've also made the Anise Jacket - with my own little twist, I'll show you guys soon!) and used Sarai's tutorial to make them (sorry, for some reason the Collettrie site isn't working so I can't attach the link, I'll be sure to check back soon and try again). It was pretty easy, Sarai's tutorials are so helpful!
I tried to find a tutorial on how to draft welt pockets for you guys but I can't seem to find one.. Maybe I'll make one myself - is that something you would find interesting?

I used my Cat Cotton from my Cat Blouse to make the lining for the pockets and I'm always so happy to reach into the pocket and see a little kitty peek up at me. I haven't actually used the pockets, only once when I had to use the bathroom at work and had my cellphone with me so I just stuck it in my pocket. To be honest it's not the most flattering place for pockets because the moment I put something in them, it weighs the fabric down and it clings to my hips which isn't a good thing, trust me. Oh well!

I added little buttons at the edge of the sleeves to give the dress a little pop of color (or a pop of black.. is black a color?), it was either this of little bows made up from the fashion fabric.. After much contemplation (I kid you not) I decided to add the buttons because I felt the dress was kind of... muted. What do you think?

I finished the neckline with bias tape, hemmed the sleeves by serging the fabric and turning it in. That's about it!
In closing, even though this isn't the dress of my dreams and it definitely exceeded my expectations (which were incredibly low in the first place)
I will leave you with a few questions:
What are you thoughts on winter dresses?
What is your favorite pattern for sewing with stripes and plaids?
Why am I making the same exact face in all the pictures?

Have a great weekend!

Chiffon Bow Blouse

I'm having a rough sewing day. I'm trying to sew my own version of the Anise jacket and to be honest I'm not having the greatest time with it. I'll write a more in depth post about the pattern and my jacket, but I just had to let it out there. TODAY, SEWING IS NOT MY FRIEND.

Lately, I've only been sewing during the weekends, as during the week I don't live at home and I work a full time job. Because of this, I sometimes resort to sewing little projects rather than new and more time consuming projects. I already have a few basic patterns ready so I can just change the neckline or sleeves and I have a new shirt.
This is kind of what I did with this shirt, only it evolved while I sewed it. It did not evolve because I'm creative or because I kept getting new brilliant idea. It evolved because I kept making mistakes. Antibiotics was invented by mistake, no?  Well, this is my Antibiotics, it's just as brilliant too, I tell ya, going to save plenty of lives this shirt is.

Yup, it's just chiffon shirt. I'm pretty sure all you sewers out there are saying - why is she even showing this to us? It's true, it really isn't that exciting, but I feel like it's better if us bloggers show our mistakes and mundane projects because whats better than shouting out "I'm just a mediocre sewers sometimes" in public? That's what I'm doing. I hope you don't unfollow my blog now.

It's kind of difficult to see the details of this shirt because of the busy fabric (it's little leaves!) so I'll give you a recap. I transferred the darts to gathers in the shoulder seam and gave the shirt a baggy look by widening the side seams by about an inch. The sleeves are basically the same width the whole way down (rather than tapering towards the wrist) which I gathered at the wrists and finished with bias binding. The sleeve caps are also gathered which took a little longer to sew with chiffon and IT'S SO FREAKING SLIPPERY but worth the effort (but maybe not.. can you ever tell they're gathered? This pattern is so confusing)

The collar is one of the most dominant of the Antibiotics Effect in this shirt. I intended this to be a tie collar shirt (kind of vintage style that ties at the side of the neckline) but ended up measuring wrongly and having only tiny little tips left rather than long strips to tie a knot (don't ask me how this happened). After putting a little thought into it (also, I may or may not have had enough fabric to make a new collar) I decided to make a little bow and sew a fabric covered button to it. Can't see what the heck I'm talking about?

How about now?

Ok, now that you saw a close up lets talk a little more about the construction. I NEVER know how to construct a tie collar in a clever way, I sit and think about it often (it's kind of embarrassing to admit how much time I spend thinking about how things work in sewing) but I can really never figure out. I'll tell you about my stupid way and then, if any of you guys know the RIGHT way to do it, I'd love to know.
1) I made bias tape from the fashion fabric to attach the collar to the shirt.
2) I cut the long strip of fabric that's going to act as my collar.
3) I sewed the short ends shut so create the square ends.

At this point I'll stop and say that my biggest issue is the point where the collar strip disconnect from the neckline and becomes the tie. Does the make sense? What bothers me is that the strips have to be finished in order to look nice (as in the raw edges of the strip need to be finished somehow) but the rest of the the neckline strip that's laying against the neckline doesn't have to be finished because it's connected to the neckline with a bias strip.
Now, I know that a lot sewers souldn't use a bias strip but encase the neckline with the collar strip, but I still don't understand how to deal with the point where the collar disconncets from the neckline, it seems like such an unclean finish!

4) I measured the neckline length and marked the length in the middle of the strip. I finished ( sewed the long ends right sides together) both ends of the tubes (as they are going to be hanging freely) and trespassed a little into the "neckline territory". That way most of the collar laying against the neckline isn't finished so there isn't that much bulk, but the ends that are nging out are finished.

AHHH does that even make sense???

5) Anyway, I then proceed to attach the collar with a bias strip.

6) the way I created the little bow was sewing the bottom part of the strip to the point where it connects to the neckline (I did this so both strips) and sewed a little button in the middle.

I'm sorry if this was incoherent, let me know if you want me to clarify anything. I kind of wish I had taken pictures!

A few confessions about this blouse:
1) Apparently I didn't sew the sleeve correctly and one of the gathers escaped the bias strip. I only realized this after wearing is a few times and I now have to rip the seams and resew the bias strip. I REALLY hope I'll get this done and it's won't become a UFO.
2) I didn't really like this shirt when I finished it. I didn't feel that it was very creative or interesting in any way.
3) This blouse has gotten SO many compliments. It's so weird how the things that I don't put that much effort into get more compliments then the ones that I do. Does this happen to you too? I made a dress with an embroidered panel and fabric covered buttons and god knows what else and it got just a few compliments but this shirt that I consider kind of a "blah" sewed garment was complimented constantly. WHATS UP WITH THAT?
4) I didn't bother with a baby hem. I just serged the bottom and hemmed it. Does that make me a bad sewer? I HATE baby hems.

Back shot. Again, I opted for a curved hem, I have a thing for them.

 

 Gathers!!!

Ok, so these are questions to you, readers:

1) What do you do when you have a bad a sewing day?

2)  How the heck does one make a tie collar?

3) Why do non sewers always like the projects that I put the least amount of effort in?

4) Why do I not like the projects that I put the least amount of effort in?

I do like this blouse, even though I'm complaining constantly, I've worn it quite a few times and it fits well in my wardrobe.

But whats the point of having a blog if not to complain?

Mrs. Pettigrew Blouse

I mentioned in a post a while back that I was planning on copying Amy Adam's Blouse from "Mrs. Pettigrew Lives For A Day". First, it's an excellent movie, it's incredibly lighthearted yet touches your heart at the same time. It's staged right before World War II, the stars of the movie being Amy Adams as a frivolous actress who is trying to forge herself a career by sleeping with the right men and at the same time trying to find love, and Frances McDormand who ends up being her house keeper by trickery who is just trying to earn a living but gets so much more! The movie is silly but touches very serious subjects at the surface. 

 The clothing is absolutely inspiring! It's incredibly glamorous yet I do feel that it has a little bit of a modern touch to it.. It's difficult to explain, but even the older ladies in this movie are dressed beautifully!

 The blouse that inspired me the most is part of this ensemble that Amy Adams wears in her final scene:

 I just love the neckline! I've never seen this detail on a modern button up shirt and I think it's such a feminine and unique touch. The minute I saw it I knew I had to make it for myself, (evidence to this is this pin in which I promised to make it the next day). I really did! I just didn't photograph it until a few days ago. 
Well, here is the big reveal:
TADAAAAAAAA

  
I decided to make it into a normal button up shirt, as I didn't feel that I'd wear is as much as a dress (and I proved this theory right by wearing this shirt like 5 times since I made it). I used this plaid fabric that I got for 2.5$ a meter in a bazaar in Israel, I had a lot of trouble matching the plaid as we know, but I think it came out pretty well! I matched them only width wise, so they don't match at the shoulder seams and for some reason I didn't think to match them in the sleeves either. You think I'd have thought of that after spend so much time matching the rest of the stupid shirt!

 I kind of feel like a librarian in this blouse, so I thought I'd act it out for you guys and wear my glasses (that I never actually wear). What do you think? Do you feel like rushing to do your homework? 

The collar didn't come out as great as I planned. I couldn't figure out how to make it lie completely flat in the part where it overlaps as it did in the original shirt. I ended up making a long strip on the bias to create the collar, I only stitched the front parts closed and then I sandwiched the neckline in the rest of it. I thought it was enough to do that and have the overlap lie flat, BUT NO. Anyway, it's not bad, but I kind of get self conscious about it.

 I opted for princess seams and I'm happy I did, I thought they would be easier to match than dior seams and I wasn't sure that just sewing darts with the plaid would look good. Also, I think I like style-lines better than darts, they kind of shape the whole garment rather than only the place where the dart is.. do you feel this too? 

I decided to forgo the button clusters out of sheer laziness, I don't know why but it felt like more work than just spacing out the buttons equally. I think I will try this on a shirt soon because I like this look, I was just so frustrated with matching the fabric I wanted the rest of the construction to go faster. I know it's silly BUT I ALSO KNOW YOU DO THIS TOO, SO STOP JUDGING.

 
 This is what the collar looks like open, I hand sewed snaps to the overlapping collar. 
This is was also my first time shaping a piece of fabric with an iron. I cut the collar on the bias and I stretched the part that would be sewn to the shirt neckline with LOTS of steam so that it'll lay flat rather than stick out like a mandarin collar. It really works! can you tell it's a little tighter at the top of the collar? don't tell me if it doesn't.

I look like a midget in this picture, my dad is so tall it's like he's taking a picture of me from a top of a building! We later figure out how to avoid this issue but you'll only see an improvement in the next few garments.

I had the silly thought of making a matching jacket like in Amy Adam's ensemble. I still can't decide if I want to do this or not! I've made my first successful jacket a few weeks ago so I feel that my motivation is greater.. but will I wear it as an ensemble?? I can't decide!

For the sake of being honest, I've never worn this shirt with this outfit, I always wore it with jeans, but I thought I'd glamour off for you guys!

What do you think? Is it as similar as I think it is? Have you ever tried to copy a garment from a movie? Also, I don't know if you caught the subtle clue, but I have a pinterest accound AND YOU SHOULD FOLLOW IT.